IF YOU WALKED INTO an upscale restaurant a decade
ago and asked to speak to the sommelier, the individual arriving at your table would have likely conformed to a familiar stereotype: an older gentleman with a big knotted tie, a pin on his lapel
and a tastevinaround his neck, pontificating about which pricey Margaux
vintage to pair with your filet.
Enter that same restaurant today, however, and chances are the person bearing the wine list will be in his 20s or 30s. Rather than wearing a suit, he might be dressed in nothing but jeans and a
T-shirt—and your sommelier is also far less likely to be a “he” at all.